Health Matters
From "Maple Street Co-op News", Oct/Nov 2007

Think Twice Before You Slop on Sunscreen
By Mukti

Almost one in three Australians will develop skin cancer, with a reported five million experiencing sunburn each summer. We all know we should avoid the sun between the hours of 10 am and 3 pm and wear a broad-brimmed hat and protective clothing, but should we also slather our skin in sunscreen every day?

The chemicals in sunscreens are of some concern, and the Cancer Council of Australia acknowledges that there is a lack of information regarding the effects of long-term sunscreen use.

The active ingredients in sunscreens are usually of two types: chemical (active organics); and physical (passive inorganics). Chemical sunscreens absorb the UVA and UVB rays and include ingredients such as PABA or octyl-methoxycinnamate (OMC). Physical sunscreens usually use micro amounts of fine metals, such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. These stay on the surface of the skin and diffuse the UVA and UVB rays from the sun by creating a protective barrier, and are less likely to irritate the skin.

Some studies have shown that exposure to the sun could make the UVB filter OMC even more deadly. This is a chemical found in over 90 per cent of sunscreens. Other studies identify the ingredient PBSA (2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid) as having the potential to destroy human cells or trigger DNA damage.

Most of the active ingredients in regular sunscreens are known as photon activators, which may actually increase the possibility of cancers, rather than decrease them. A photon activator's role is to absorb UV radiation and it in turn becomes energised when exposed to the sun. As the particles return to their former state they transmit the stored energy to the skin.

It has also been suggested that a combination of different agents may cause skin lesions that are not produced by any of the chemicals when used independently of each other. PABA, another popular active ingredient, is known to irritate sensitive skin.

Ingredients to avoid
The majority of sunscreens usually contain one or more of these commonly used active organics. Fortunately, some are now being phased out due to the possibility of absorption. They include:
• Octyl-methoxycinnamate - may produce free radicals (singlet molecular oxygen) known to be toxic to cells
• Titanium dioxide - can cause DNA damage due to superoxide radicals, active oxygen radicals and hydroxyl radicals when exposed to light
• Oxybenzone - is rapidly oxidised in the presence of light and inactivates important antioxidant systems in the skin (the skin's natural protection system)
• PABA - may produce free radicals and phototoxic reactions in the presence of light
• Cinoxate - may cause DNA damage (sister chromatid exchanges)
• Padimate-O - may produce free radicals in presence of light (singlet molecular oxygen) and substantially increases indirect damage (strand breaks in DNA) when in contact with cells Dibenzoylmethane and Parsol 1789 - can produce free radicals responsible for direct DNA damage (strand breaks)
• Methyl sinapate - may cause DNA damage (chromosome aberrations and sister chromatid exchanges)
• Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and 2-phenylbenzimidazole - can act as photosensitisers of DNA damage when exposed to sunlight or UVB radiation.

The most prudent choice is to avoid all of the above chemicals. Instead, choose a safer alternative that uses passive inorganics and natural plant extracts as active ingredients.

Safe ingredients
• Micronised Zinc Oxide - provides excellent transparent broad spectrum UV protection for the skin, essential to prevent premature ageing due to photo damage
• Vitamin A - retinoid assists in the prevention of wrinkles due to sun exposure
• Vitamin C - protects against burns and may assist in reversing sun damage
• Witch hazel - functions as an anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory
• Aloe vera - has soothing and calming properties and may assist in recovery from sunburn and reduce the risk of skin cancer
• Green tea - contains antioxidant polyphenols and can prevent and possibly reverse sun damage
• Calendula - stimulates new cell growth and reduces inflammation
• Milk thistle (Silymarin) - applied topically has been effective in treating tumors due to UV exposure
• Alpha-lipoic Acid (ALA) - a powerful antioxidant that assists with smoothing and lifting the skin
• DMAE (deanol bitartrate) - has anti-inflammatory properties and may diminish the appearance of scars and improve muscle tone.

Applying an SPF of any strength is not going to prevent sun damage if you go out into the midday sun, and in case you need another reason to avoid the harsh UV rays, they are known to cause premature ageing in the form of wrinkles, pigmentation, blemishes, coarseness, broken veins, and scaly patches.

The Co-op stocks UV Natural 30+ UVA/UVB protection, which uses zinc oxide as it's active ingredient.

• Mukti is the founder of Mukti Botanicals, a range of certified organic skin and personal care products that are available at the Co-op. Mukti is a qualified natural therapist, beauty therapist and aromatherapist, and is currently completing a degree in Cosmetic Science.

[From "Maple Street Co-op News", October/November 2007; published by The Maple Street Co-operative Society Ltd, 37 Maple Street, Maleny, Qld 4552, Australia, tel (07) 5494 2088, email maplest.coop@serv.net.au,
website http://www.maplestreetco-op.com.au]