Organics News & Consignors News
From "Maple Street Co-op News", Aug/Sep 2006

Organic Food You Can Trust – from the Co-op!
by Lori Sturtz

The organic market in Australia now exceeds $300 million a year and is growing at about 20% per annum. In the USA it is expected to reach $A30.7 billion by 2007, an annual growth rate of 21.4% from 2002 to 2007. The European organic market grew to $A8 billion in 2004, with Germany spending $A3.2 billion that year.[1] Considering these great growth rates, could organic farming become a victim of its own success?

Wal-Mart has entered the organic market in its usual big way and is expected to change organic food production in significant ways. Companies like them who once thought of organics as just a niche market are now realising the big business opportunity here. According to Wal-Mart CEO John Fleming, the chain wants to sell organic food at just 10% more than conventional food, instead of the usual premium of 20–30%. Some organic advocates see this as a positive move, since it will mean that more land will be farmed organically and that organic food will be brought to the masses. However, others think it will ultimately hurt organic farmers and undercut the environmental benefits.[2]

Marion Nestle (professor of nutrition, food studies and public health at New York University) said: "It's better for the planet, but not from a nutritional standpoint. It's a ploy to be able to charge more for junk food." Kellogg's and Kraft said they began working on organic Rice Krispies and organic macaroni and cheese before they had conversations with Wal-Mart. However, they are glad that such a big customer is enthusiastic about these products. General Mills and Pepsi said they will introduce new organic versions of some brands in late 2006. One cynic claimed that now they can be organically obese instead of conventionally obese![3]

Many people in the organics industry have long maintained that the real costs of cheap, industrial-produced foods are not reflected in the checkout price; instead, these costs are charged to the environment in the form of soil depletion and pollution. In fact, industrialised agriculture is now the biggest polluter. Other costs are related to public health, as these foods are implicated in the rising rates of obesity and diabetes which are costing more than $100 billion a year. The welfare of farm and factory workers as well as farm animals is an additional cost that is not reflected in the price paid by the consumer. To sell organic food for 10% more than irresponsibly priced food implies that corporations like Wal-Mart really don't understand or care about the ethics of organics. Big business industrial efficiency and "economies of scale” do not belong in a system that tries to mimic the logic of natural systems.[4]

The corporatisation of organics

In the past, organic foods were only available through farmers' markets and health food stores. However, organics are now sold in major chainstores like Wal-Mart and Whole Foods overseas and Woolworths and Coles in Australia. Often the food is produced by companies such as Nestlé and Coca-Cola and is grown on corporate-owned farms – not by small-scale organic farmers who concern themselves with rural communities, social justice, the humane treatment of animals and the integrity of the soil.

Whole Foods is a US-based natural foods retail giant that has gobbled up most of its competitors. It has 168 stores nationwide, has expanded into Canada and the UK, and has annual gross sales that exceed US$4.6 billion. It has grown twice as fast as Wal-Mart over the past four years and is planning to build a number of 80,000-square-foot behemoths costing $15 million apiece. It has also joined the Bush White House in opposing Country of Origin Labelling (COOL) as mandated by the 2002 Farm Bill. The US Department of Agriculture's organic label no longer means "Grown in the USA". According to the group Family Farm Defenders, a Pittsburgh Whole Foods store would not negotiate with local organic farmers, telling them to contact a regional warehouse in another state. (Woolworths has similar distribution policies here in Australia.) While no official records are kept, the USDA estimates that over $1.5 billion worth of organic imports entered the USA in 2002. Uninformed organic supporters are now buying Chinese asparagus and Mexican broccoli, thinking they are supporting American organic farmers. For Whole Foods, just like Wal-Mart and Woolworths, the bottom line prevails at the expense of worker and consumer well-being.[5]

Not everyone in the organic food industry views these trends as negative. Barbara Haumann, spokesperson for the US Organic Trade Association (OTA), commented: "The more players, the more products will be available to consumers, who, in turn, will buy more products. This will result in more land under organic production, regardless of the size of the operation. And that will be better for the environment, local communities and the planet."[6]

According to the California Certified Organic Farmers group, California had a 27% increase (40,000 acres) in organic livestock production and 12% (5,000 acres) in organic vegetable farming during 2004. However, Paul Cienfueges of the California-based Arcata Committee on Democracy and Corporations is a long-time critic of the corporatisation of organics. He accuses large firms of using their organics subsidiaries to infiltrate sustainable agriculture and to water-down organics standards. He cited the case of a recent organics convention in Texas where a panel sponsored by the OTA considered how organically grown and genetically engineered crops could co-exist. Cienfueges said: "The fact that the General Mills Corporation is a major OTA donor may have had something to do with this."[7]

Another critic, Rich Ganis, who writes for the online newsletter informedeating.org, thinks that the modest ecological benefits from having more organic acres are offset by the tremendous amounts of fossil fuels, packaging and the other resources expended in the production and distribution of these "value-added products". The OTA lobbied in Washington to attach a rider to the 2006 Agricultural Appropriations Bill that would weaken US organic food standards. It will allow synthetic food substances in the preparation, processing and packaging of organic foods. This rider also allows young cows to be fed GE feed as well as given antibiotics prior to conversion to organic certification. Even though this caused outrage from organics activists, the bill was passed into law and goes into effect later this year, says the US-based Organic Consumers Association.[8]

While over 90% of all US farms are considered to be "small" by the USDA, the other 10% (comprising big agribusinesses) provide about 60% of all food sales. In California, vast organic carrot and lettuce monocultures, which use huge amounts of subsidised water and energy, are unacceptable and anti-environmental to those who want ecologically sound farming. Corporate Watch says that the US demand for organic milk has exceeded the supply by 10%. One dairy company, Horizon, controls 70% of the US organic dairy industry. It supplies Wal-Mart, and about 50% of its cows are housed in feedlots, according to the Cornucopia Institute. Some smaller natural food stores are no longer stocking Horizon's milk. Many people in the organics industry believe that after reaching a certain size, the operation cannot be ecologically sound any more.[9]

There is a major move towards industrial feedlot factory farms; and while there are huge Confined Animal Feeding Operations (CAFOs) that may use organic feed and refrain from using antibiotics, these are not much different from their conventional counterparts. US Federal organics rules proclaim only that animals should have "access to the outdoors", but in practice that can mean a tiny exercise yard or, in one case, a view of the outdoors. The paradox here is that these "organic feedlots" are more precarious than the conventionals because they can't use antibiotics to keep the thousands of animals living like this from getting sick.[10]

Supporting our local organic growers

Numerous studies show that local foods (organic or not) have less impact on the environment than food that has been shipped long distances. Buying local produce is better for the environment, local communities and farmers as well as for your health. However, the nutrient content is lost over time, so the sooner the food is eaten the better.[11]

Here at Maple Street Co-op, local organic food is our priority. We support local growers and producers whenever possible. We source all of our bananas and almost all of our salad greens locally. Graham Newton has been bringing in his ladyfinger and goldfinger bananas for 25 years now, without missing a week! Peter Borleis has recently received his OHGA certification and brings a weekly delivery of beautiful lettuce, salad rocket, bok choi, eschallots, coriander and English spinach. The O'Connor clan has its Maleny farm certified with OHGA and has consigned to us for almost 10 years. Jenny and her sons Gavin and Blair supply us with an amazing range of organic, farm-fresh produce including citrus fruit, pumpkins, rhubarb and herbs, to name just a few. Darren and Brooke Lightbody (also certified with OHGA) grow snowpeas, mandarins and the most incredible strawberries we've ever tasted.

Many local organic growers who are not certified also consign to us. However, we have a long association with them and are assured of their ethics and the integrity of their farming practices. All of our suppliers sign affidavits guaranteeing their organic status, and they have to fill out a two-page form outlining their practices with fertilisers, weed control and pest management. Chris Felkin brings us citrus, avocadoes, custard apples and potatoes. Val and Graham Stevens supply us with beautiful roses, pumpkins, cherry tomatoes and custard apples. Pam and Alan Walker have been consigning their avocadoes to us since 1992, and in more recent years Helen McMahon has been bringing in her green-bagged avocadoes and Four Winds Farm the red-bagged ones. David Chatterton has been supplying the Co-op for years with wonderful salad greens and herbs. Jim Hunt has an amazing array of greens including broccoli, lettuce, rocket, coriander and much more. Denis Graham grows those giant, lush, silverbeet bunches that you have probably noticed lately. Jodie Robbins always has something unusual, from jam melons to her unique bush-flower arrangements. Jon Woodlands is responsible for the marvellous potted organic herb plants that we sell on the wooden trolley out the front of the Co-op.

We have done newsletter write-ups of most of these growers in the past, but I thought I would mention them here for all of our new members.

There are many good reasons for buying local produce. Local food tastes better and is better for you. Food grown in your community is freshly picked and usually crisper and loaded with flavour. By buying locally grown food you support farming families who, in many regions, have a vanishing lifestyle. Farmers receive less than 10% of the retail dollar for produce they supply to supermarkets, but those who sell directly to consumers get a much fairer price for their produce. Local food protects genetic diversity because many of the varieties grown are heirlooms. These old types have been passed down through the generations because they taste good. Most industrial varieties of fruits and vegetables are hybrids with tough skins suitable for long-distance transport. Local produce also preserves open spaces and so preserves the agricultural landscape. When you buy local food, you are supporting the future. This ensures that local farms remain in your community for future generations.[12]

We trust all of our growers and feel very privileged to call them friends as well as suppliers. We also include all members in this special friendship. Maple Street Co-op is very much a neighbourhood shop where townsfolk can meet for a chat and a cup of tea (or organic juice), especially now that The UpFront Club is part of the Co-op. The big grocery giants are trying to find ways to bring the small-shop feel into their operations. Here at Maple Street Co-op, we are that small shop! We strive to maintain the highest quality possible, and to bring you – our members – food you can trust. After all, you are the owners and keepers of this flame we call "the Co-op".

Endnotes
1. Malcolm McGuire, Clean Food Organic, Custom Publishing Pty Ltd, NSW, 2005
2. Melanie Warner, "Wal-Mart Eyes Organic Foods", New York Times, 12 May 2005
3. op. cit.
4. Michael Pollan, "Mass Natural", New York Times, 4 June 2006, http://www.nytimes.com
5. http://www.familyfarmdefenders.org
6. http://www.organicconsumers.org
7. Pallavi Gogoi, "Wal-Mart's Organic Offensive", Business Week, 29 March 2006
8. http://www.organicconsumers.org
9. http://www.corpwatch.org
10. Michael Pollan, op. cit.
11. Steve Connor, "Buy Local Produce and Save the Planet", 3 March 2005, http://organicconsumers.org
12. http://www.caff.org.

[From "Maple Street Co-op News", August/September 2006; published by The Maple Street Co-operative Society Ltd, 37 Maple Street, Maleny, Qld 4552, Australia, tel (07) 5494 2088, email maplest.co-op@serv.net.au, website http://www.maplestreetco-op.com.au]

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